DIY Semi Frameless Pool Installation Guide

The set out is the most important part of the fence installation. You first need to string line your paving or ground to find the high and low spots and any fall. Find your high spot. This is where you will take your minimum height from (1200mm)*. From this spot measure up 1220mm. Now run a string line parallel to the ground (level) for the full run of your fence.

This will be the top mark for all of your posts.

*Note: If you have a garden wall or similar adjoining or near your pool fence, that and any similar stepping points need to stay 1200mm below the top of your fence. This may mean putting in one or more higher panels to meet this requirement.
Maximum gap below bottom of glass or where the fence meets the house, boundary fencing etc, is 100mm. We recommend a maximum of any gaps to not exceed 90mm.

Mark out your post centers as per your fence order (see post set out sample).

Using a 65mm Core drill, go to a maximum depth of 130mm. remove cores with BBQ tongs being careful not to chip tiles. Remove any debris and dry holes. If going into dirt or garden then dig hole at least 300mm x 300mm x 400mm deep. Fill with normal concrete and core drill when fully cured. Do not use rapid set concrete. This type of concrete is not suitable especially for aluminium posts.

One at a time place your post in the hole and mark with pencil where it meets the top string line. If the post stops short of the string line, then you will need to put some suitable chocks into the bottom of the hole to attain the correct height. Small bits of timber will suffice.

Cut the post at this mark and place in hole. Don’t swap posts as they will all be slightly different. Once all posts have been cut and inserted we recommend you attach spacing sticks. These are sticks cut to the correct size so that they space apart the posts leaving the correct gap for the glass to slide into place. Always double check stick sizes and final set up to make sure your glass is going to fit.

Starting at one end, attach sticks using rubber bands.

Now using a long level, level post and lock into place using wooden chocks. Do not put chocks in so they cover the glass slot as this is where you will pour in your cement. The spacing sticks will keep the posts at the correct distance apart, you just need to keep the posts in an upright level position. Remember the gate posts will have a different spacer stick!

Once all post are in place, go round with tape measure and double check all post to make sure all are level and in line and that all gaps are at correct spacing to receive glass panels. This proceedure can be done without the use of sticks but extra care needs to be taken not to knock the posts once they are set level.

Mask up all paving areas.For cementing posts we recommend using Epirez Quick Set Grout (Ph 1800 063 511). Do not use rapid set cement or similar products.

Cement posts into place being careful not to bump posts. Cement should finish 2mm below paving.

Once cement has cured remove all chocks being careful not to chip any paving.

Now measure distance down from top of remaining posts to required point at bottom of posts. On standard fence kits this will be 1150mm which will give you approx 70mm gap at bottom of glass. Remember that the paving can, and most times will be slightly undulating so the overall height will vary. That is why the standard height of our fence is 1220mm and not 1200mm.

Now push in fillet and slide down until it is firmly touching your cement and mark at the corresponding spot. Cut slightly shorter [ 3mm]. Check for correct height and when happy insert fillet

Do one at a time so as not to get them mixed up as all will be slightly different.

Now slide the post cover washers over posts and into place.

Put the supplied shims on top of your fillets so when you slide the glass into place it sits on top of the shims.

Slide the glass into place. It is best to use two people for this, being careful to keep the glass at as close as possible to 90°. Work slowly. When you have one piece of glass in place, check for height and adjust if necessary {1mmshort of top of post} and then insert two short lengths [20mm] of the glazing rubber at the top of the glass to stop it rattling about. If you have already cut the glazing rubbers to the required length then these can be used to stop glass rattling.

Repeat for all panels.

Cut the glazing rubbers to the required lengths. This will be the overall glass height plus approx 30mm overhang for the top and bottom of glass. Fill up a hand held spray bottle with water and add dish washing detergent. This will help the rubbers slide into place. Spray both sides of the glass and channel the full length of one side of the post with the soapy water. You can also soak the rubber in a bucket of soapy waterthe as well if needed. Leaving 20-30mm overhang at the top, insert the rubber a short way on both sides of the glass. Make sure that you have the rubber facing the right way – the three ribs should be on the glass with the narrow part of the glazing rubber inserted into the post channel. Now without pushing/sliding in a downward motion, push the rubber into the post channel. Do this to both sides at the same time. Make sure you use plenty of soapy water [should be soaking wet]. Having a second person help on the opposite side of the glass will make this a lot easier especially on the lower parts of the glass where you will not be able to reach over. If you have a glazing rubber roller tool {sold separately}, roll approx 100mm each side, alternating so as to not push the glass too much to one side.

Complete all post except the gate posts and the post next to the post that the gate will be hinged off. You need to silicon the top half of this glass into these posts to help support the gate. This will lock the glass into these posts and stop the post moving away from the glass when you hang the gate.

Do one post at a time. Make sure the glass and post is dry before applying the silicon. Apply silicon so that it fills completely the gap behind the glass into the channel, but leave enough room for the glazing rubbers to fit. Apply the silicon and immediately insert the glazing rubbers. If silicon does ooze out, spray soapy water on surrounding surfaces so the silicon cannot spread and remove with plastic spatula or similar device.

Once you have siliconed all three post channels, double check the measurements of the gate opening as this may have moved slightly with the pushing in of the glazing rubbers.

Let these posts fully cure before fitting the gate.

Trim excess glazing rubbers using a razor blade or similar

Fitting the gate will require two people.

Lay the gate on work bench or similar. Make sure you have a soft cover down to prevent scratching of the glass. Remove tension pins from both hinges. Attach hinges and latch to the gate. Attach two layers of masking tape or similar to all corners of gate to help protect from chipping when installing.

Position the gate into the opening at the required height {minimum 1200mm} using chocks for the gate to sit on. Have the gate positioned slightly [1mm approx] closer to the top of the hinge post to help compensate for any sag when you take the chocks out after fitting. Mark the holes where the hinges meet the post. Make note of angle of hinge plate for drilling. Remove gate but leave chocks in place. Drill a pilot hole {2mm}

Now re drill the holes using drill bit {4.2mm} to suit an m5 Tap. Clean the holes out and tap the holes using the m5mm tap. Tap each hole slowly, removing the tap _ to _ of a turn for each full turn to clean out any filings.

Reposition the gate and using the 15mm m5 bolts, attach the gate to the post. Lift the gate slightly when you remove the chocks so as not to damage the bottom edge of the glass. Final adjustment if needed can be accomplished by loosening off the bolts on the glass part of the hinges and adjust as needed.

Move gate to closed position and locate the latch stop at the required position on the post and fit as per gate hinges.

Finally, refit the spring tension pins to the gate hinges and tension so the gate closes from all open positions. Readjust spring tension in 3 to 4 weeks or as required.

Using silicon, glue the post caps on and let cure overnight.

Done! Here is a sample of how a correctly installed pool fence can look like.

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